It was May 2020, early in the Covid-19 pandemic. Our trip to Umbria with four friends had to be postponed. To pass the time we created this “virtual tour” and shared it on Facebook. It helped a little!
Since we cannot travel now, we want to share with you the trip we had planned for this spring. We will return to Paciano as soon as we can, but in the meantime we invite you to travel along with us on a virtual tour. Meet some extraordinary people and experience the magic. Let us show you why we love our second home and why you should come visit! Follow our daily posts starting on May 17, and remember, “it’s not what you see, it’s how you see it!”
Our trip to Paciano starts with a flight from Newark (EWR) to Rome Fumicino (FCO – aka Leonardo DaVinci Airport, but nobody calls it that).
Newspaper delivery has been suspended, banks and credit card companies have been notified, wireless phone plan modified, neighbors have agreed to check the house and water the plants. Music playlists have been downloaded.
Michele has packed and repacked three times in the last week; Frank started yesterday. Since we are dual citizens, we each bring two passports… just have to remember which one to use and when. We have more than enough AC adaptors… but can you ever *really* have enough?
Caught an Uber to the airport bus from Allentown to Newark. Arrived three hours before our 5pm flight. Bags checked, boarding passes in hand, off to have a nibble and a drink. Thank God for airport lounges; they are worth every penny if you spend a lot of time in airports. Boarded… pre-dinner drinks in hand, movies selected for later. Next stop: Roma. See you tomorrow!
We arrive at FCO at 7:45am. We are eager to get to Paciano, but patience is key… getting our bags, clearing customs, and picking up a rental car will take a couple of hours. We’ll need cash (Euros) for the tolls on the autostrada, so before leaving the airport we stop at an ATM… this is much easier and cheaper than exchanging currency… and how many of you remember travelers checques?
The drive from Fiumicino to Paciano takes about 2-1/2 hours. Along the way we stop at an Autogrill for a coffee and a snack. We wave to Orvieto as we pass – we;ll be there in a few days to meet our friends. We exit the A1 at Fabro (not as scenic as the Chianciano Terme/Chiusi exit, but faster, and off the autostrada sooner).
We stop at the Famila supermarket for basic provisions, then 15 minutes and we are home! After unpacking and settling in, we walk the 20 meters to the village bar/meeting place – La Sosta Di Giano – in the main piazza to greet our friends and neighbors. Then it is time for a much-needed nap… we need to recharge our batteries for drinks and dinner. It feels great to be home!
It is now about 7pm. Off to Sosta for an aperetivo, then a leisurely stroll through the town on our way to L’OCA Bruciata, where the owner Chiara serves some of the finest pizza you’ll ever eat, and makes you feel right at home. A perfect ending to an exciting day. Buona notte… a domani.
On this first morning in our place we always sleep in. Over a cup of coffee we start to realize that slow is OK. We can feel the rhythm. It’s about appreciating the time, the place and the people. After breakfast we head to the local “Co-op” store in Castiglione del Lago for provisions. Then we take a stroll along the shore of Lago Trasimeno and stop for refreshments at Cafe Pescatore Praia. Then we drive home and unload the groceries.
Next we head to Panicale, another enchanting village just up the ridge from Paciano. We have a late lunch at Bar del Gallo (Aldo & Daniella’s place). This is one of our favorite places to hang out with friends, enjoy the vibe, and watch the world go by.
Then it’s back home for some time in the garden with a good book. Maybe a nap… we’re still catching up on jet lag!
We end the day with a light supper at home and a nightcap at Sosta, while we talk about tomorrow’s adventure. Buona notte!
Wednesday is Market Day in Castiglione del Lago. This beautiful ancient fortress-city is perched on a peninsula in the southwest corner of the lake. Like most open-air markets in Italy, you can buy food, clothing, flowers, wine, household goods, you name it. On the way home, we stop at Il Mercatino Usato to browse the used furniture and antiques. Michele saw a lovely dresser there last year; maybe the price has come down? We will be packing a picnic lunch tomorrow for our friends, so we stop at the Conad market in Pinetta before returning home.
In the afternoon we pay a visit to Antico Sipario, just across the street from us. This is a fantastic boutique hotel, managed by the team of Claudio, Martina and Dario. Their monthly themed dinners in the summer are fabulous and great fun!
Then we walk down the hill to Bar Boldrini (aka Franco’s), the “other” bar in town, outside the wall, with a great view of the lake. This is our second-favorite spot for people-watching. Dinner tonight is at La Loggetta, on the patio. Al fresco dining at its best.
Our friends Ben, Mary, Roy, and Cheryl have “been in” Rome since Monday, and will be joining us tomorrow. A presto, amici!
Enjoying a cup of coffee and a beautiful morning view of the valley from our kitchen window. Today is the day our friends – Mary & Ben Wright, Cheryl & Roy Donkin – arrive from Roma… we are so excited! They are training from Termini station to the beautiful fortress town of Orvieto. Roughly a two-hour train ride from Roma and a 45 minute drive from Paciano, Orvieto sits about a thousand feet above the valley. The view while approaching this town is brilliant!
The train station sits in the valley and the car rental is conveniently located across the street! So easy!! Across the street from the train station is the funicular, which will get you within a 10-minute walk to the city center. There is ample parking at the top and an easy drive, but today is all about the funicular! We are meeting at the train station (free parking, yay!) and have our picnic basket at the ready. The train just pulled in and there they are!! Let the fun begin Rental car secured and parked, we are off to the funicular. Once at the top, we take a leisurely stroll through town on our way to the Duomo. Just beyond the piazza is a beautiful park with a magnificent view that is the perfect complement to our picnic consisting of some meats, cheese, fruit, bread, sweets and of course, vino. The “gatti” of Orvieto are happy to join us
We never get tired of the stupendous view of the valley from this location! Next stop is the cathedral (Duomo) and its amazing facade, which is directly behind us. So glad to have a professor and religious scholar (Ben) with us to share his knowledge and expertise. The exterior facade is stunning. There are four pillars that depict the story of Creation and end with the Last Judgement. Can’t wait to explore the interior and view the Signorelli frescoes in the Chapel of San Brizio. Amazing. Orvieto is such a beautiful town, with amazing ceramic shops, lovely artisan galleries (one of my favorite ceramic shopping locations), cute tucked-away gardens, and of course, outdoor cafes. Another great town for people-watching. So much to see, allow yourself to explore it slowly, savor it, and leave something to see for your next visit.
Time to head back to Paciano and get everyone settled. We thought dinner at home after a long day would be perfect. Perhaps a stroll through town, aperetivo in the garden and a home cooked dinner would be the perfect ending to a great day. Ben, Mary, Roy, Cheryl… we are so happy you are here
Today we are looking forward to spending the day in the beautiful Tuscan town of Montepulciano! This small medieval town sits high on a ridge overlooking the Val di Chiana and is filled with some impressive Renaissance architecture. And then there is the wine! The six of us all enjoy wine and this town represents some of the best Italy has to offer. Roy and Cheryl are from California and this is their first trip to Italy, so we are very excited to have them experience some fabulous wines today. Our dear friend, Andrea Contucci from Contucci Wines will be giving us a tour of their cellars and a tasting today, can’t wait!
We decided to take the route to Montepulciano which passes along Lake Trasimeno, it’s a pretty day and the views are great. The route is a two lane road but no one is in a hurry and it is very scenic. One of the best ways to discover new places is to stay off the highway and be open to adventure. Roads are pretty well marked, just follow the arrows to the next town
This particular route takes us to the lower end of the town, where there is public parking close to the gate into the old town. The view greets you the minute you turn the corner. We can’t wait to reach the highest point of the town, the Piazza Grande, to compare the views. This is where we will meet Andrea later this afternoon. Upon entering the gate you are surrounded by taste rooms and shops. The main road leads you though the center of the town up to the Piazza Grande. Taste rooms, shops and restaurants can be found on both sides of the street. The road is steep but we take our time. There is a a shuttle bus that you can catch just inside the gate that will take you to the top for €2 per person… we may decide to take it back down later!
On the way up we stop at Caffè Poliziano. This restaurant opened in 1868 and has a fascinating history full of famous people who have spent their free time there. We have lunch on the terrace overlooking the Val di Chiana. This is one of our favorite places to visit.
After lunch we walk the rest of the way, and meet Andrea at Cantina Contucci. His family has been making wine for 41 generations – over 1,000 years! Andrea, Antonietta, Adamo, and the rest of the staff always make everyone feel welcome, and the wine is extraordinary. We take a tour of the cellars, then enjoy a tasting and buy a few bottles to take home (you can also have the wine shipped). We catch the shuttle bus back to the bottom, and make one more stop – Fattoria Pulcino – to buy a couple of bottles of their Vin Santo.
Then it’s back home in time for the sunset and a relaxed dinner at L’OCA. Great day… a domani!
If it’s Saturday, it’s Market Day!! After a coffee and light breakfast the six of us set out for Citta della Pieve, This quaint little hilltop town is about 15 minutes from Paciano. It is the birthplaces of the famous painter Perugino and some of his works can be seen in the main cathedral and other churches in the town.
The open market is held in the main piazza in the old town. There is free parking right outside the wall. The main buildings of the old town were built between the 13th and 16th century. The views are brilliant! Quaint shops and restaurants can be found all along our walk to the main piazza without it feeling “touristy”. The market is abuzz with activity, As in most outdoor markets, you can find almost anything. The wonderful smell coming from a particular vendor is tempting us to partake in a roasted pork sandwich!! Can you smell it?! Just fabulous. We enjoy a wonderful stroll, take in the views and loop back to the car.
Then we are off to the grand city of Perugia, about 45 minutes away. Perugia is the capital city of Umbria, and is one of the cultural, artistic and educational centers of Italy. Among its many events are The Eurochocolate Festival in Autumn and the Umbria Jazz Festival in July. Perugia also hosts a huge market every Saturday, at Pian di Massiano, The easiest way to get to the old city is to park here and use the “MiniMetro” – an automated people mover that is fast, clean and just plain fun! We park the car, do some more shopping, leave our goods in the car, and hop on the MiniMetro for the ten minute ride to the old city.
We take in the amazing view, before making our way to Piazza IV Novembre (originally called Piazza Grande, but renamed to celebrate the end of the first world war). The piazza is surrounded by some of the city’s most famous sights. We explore with our friends, including a stop at Café Sant’Ercolano… maybe there’s a football match on. One afternoon is not enough to truly experience Perugia; we look forward to a return trip.
We drive home and make dinner. Then off to Sosta – it’s Saturday night and the bar is bursting with people of all ages, coming and going from all over. Salute!!
It’s another beautiful day in Paciano! The church bells remind us that it’s almost time for Mass. The church sits just outside the lower gait and is always welcoming to visitors. It’s a challenge to not be distracted by the thought of the fresh baked delights that await us at Lo Scoiattolo. Lia and her husband Fausto have opened their home and installed a bread oven and sell some of the best breads and pastries and a variety of beverages. The setting is literally like being at home, sitting on the patio overlooking the valley, surrounded by good conversation and laughter. We take some goodies and breads to go and we are ready for a leisurely day in Isola Maggiore, on Lago Trasimeno. We drive to Castiglione del Lago and hop the ferry to Maggiore. We enjoy a beautiful picnic, take a lovely hike and just soak in some of the serenity of this island of approximately 35 inhabitants and centuries of history. We catch the ferry back and spend some time exploring Castiglione del Lago, shop a bit and do a bit of wine tasting.
A leisurely drive home, a nap perhaps, and then off to Panicale for the sunset and an amazing dinner at Simone and Lorena’s restaurant – Osteria il Gallo nel Pozzo in Panicale. Simone is from Panicale and Chef Lorena (his wife) is from Sicily. The menu is a wonderful mix of Umbrian and Sicilian cuisine, and the wine list is first class. The atmosphere is warm and friendly. This is one of our favorite fine restaurants anywhere.
We’ve been busy the last few days, and have a big day tomorrow, so we’re going to stay close to home today. Relax in the garden, take a walk around Paciano, catch the sunset. Maybe we’ll take the ten-minute drive to Madrevite Vineyards.
Then again, if Roy or Cheryl or Ben or Mary decide they want to wander some more, they could catch a train from Chiusi Station, only 15 minutes away. From Chiusi you can travel by rail to anywhere in Italy and beyond. Florence (2 hours), Siena (90 minutes), Arezzo (45m) and Cortona (25m) are easy day trips. Although driving a car through the countryside is a wonderfully flexible way to travel, taking the train allows you to let someone else do the driving, especially nice when heading to a large city. Plus, you get to “feel like an Italian.”
